Sunday, April 8, 2012

Aventinus Vintage 2004


Aventinus Wheat Doppelbock Ale, (weizenstarkbier), Brauerei Georg Schneider & Sohn, brewed in 2004. Product of Bavaria, Germany. 8.2% ABV. Paper wrapped, with various events of that year lain diagonally across the sheet. Academy Award winners, Olympics, natural disasters, this odd fact: "Bill Haley invented rock'n'roll 50 years ago." Was that him? There must be a debate about that, somewhere. I'd bet Jerry Lee Lewis and Little Richard have something to say about that. Tied around the neck with string is a nice little card, and here's what it says: "Aventinus, the worlds oldest top=fermenting wheat doppelbock, has received accolades for the perfect balance of fruity spiciness (banana, clove, vanilla) and notes of chocolate (crystal and dark malts). In addition, the beer has demonstrated wonderful aging potential with aromas and flavors of chocolate (very soft), port and sherry when aged for three years or more.
Therefore, in 1999, the Schneider Brewery decided to age 240 cases of Aventinus each year in their historical ice cellar in Kelheim with each batch held for a minimum of three years.
Each fall for many years to come, B. United International is proud to release a small allotment of the latest vintage to all our customers across the USA. Please enjoy it now or hold on to it in your own cellar for further development…if you can handle the wait."

Well, I can't handle the wait. And I think that eight years is enough. So, let's crack this open and take in all this development.

One small detriment of age is noted immediately. Utterly still, no foam, no head, no nothing, very un-like the normally bilious Aventinus. There's a lot going on when you examine the surface, plenty of active bubbles spreading swiftly from the middle to the sides, but that's as far as it goes.

Aroma, here's where it's happening. Very much like the young Aventinus, but taken further in complexity. Banana and clove are there at first, followed by raisins, grape, figs, dark rum, port wine. Raspberry jam in a wine cask, chocolate looks below. Beautiful.

Taste: again, very still, no carbonation on the tongue. At least, very little. But the palate is washed over with the smooth wheat feel and the dark malt flavor I've come to love from Aventinus, pushed a little farther. Gets richer and fuller in the mouth, the more it takes command of the senses. A little pepper to match the clove, a touch of fire in this to stir up the fruit and chocolate notes. Mmmm, mmm.

One good thing about this venture in aging is that they charge no more for it than for a new bottle of Aventinus. One bad thing about it, if I may, is that while very good and some kind of an improvement, it's not quite a mind-blower and shies seriously short of transcendence. Although…although…I'm liking this more and more. Mellow and mostly magical.

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