John Courage Russian Imperial Stout

Some years ago, I got a visit at my bars from some self-proclaimed beer geeks associated with one of the beer geek websites who were eager to taste some Surly Darkness. When one of them expressed his lack of enthusiasm for the imperial stout he's heard so much about and just sampled, I wondered what his favorite RIS was, and what about it was missing from Darkness. His reply was John Courage, which I knew to be currently unavailable, and hadn't been brewed in many years, and the flavor he wished he'd tasted was "a little more grape." Yeah, that's what the whole beer world is clamoring for, more grapey imperial stouts.

It seemed like a perfect sketch of the ultimate beer geek, comparing something in the here and now unfavorably against something long gone and unattainable. I thought I'd never get my hands on this legendary stout, when what do you know, I found a bottle, currently brewed by Wells & Youngs. I cracked it open last night, and here are the notes:


Courage Imperial Russian Stout, Vintage 2012. Alc 10% Vol., 9.3 fl. oz. "brewed to perfection only once a year. Enjoy now or age up to 13 years." Clearly, I've chosen now.

Solidly Stygian hue, with a slim cocoa-tan hue, thin but for the center, a creamy nucleas adrift in a sea of black.

Aroma: roasted malt, molasses, char, smoke. Dark, deep, devilish. Even demanding.

Taste: Dark roasted, toasted malt, thick, rich, a little viscous. Dark fruits abounding, fig and raisin, ultimately dry, no sweetness, with minor bitterness, just a touch of hops. A torrent of flavor, wave after wave, depth of taste returning, nothing but darkness, ending dryly. Quite complex, rich and rewarding.

What else does the label say? "Enjoys a rich, espresso body with pear overtones and an intriguing fresh smokey, fruity finish." Don't know about the pear (?), but the rest sounds pretty close. Also, "No. 70, 610 of 210, 000."

Is this truly the original Russian Imperial Stout, or Imperial Russian Stout? I thought that was Le Coq? This one claims it was originally brew in 1795 for Catherine the Great of Russia. Who knows for sure?

It definitely tastes like an original article. Fruity flavors are becoming more prominent through and through, halfway into the bottle. More chocolate, more coffee, more of everything you want from an Imperial Stout, with less of the hops you get from American versions, and much less sweetness. This is almost perfect, actually. Too bad it's so small, rare, and expensive. Alas and alack.