Barley John's Wild Brunette Wild Rice Brown Ale

There's a brewery that's been lacking representation in this little ol' blog of mine, and that will change with these cans from Wisconsin by the brewery born of a brewpub in Minnesota. What? Yeah, it's a story, all right. John Moore and his wife Laura started Barley John's Brewpub in the Minneapolis suburb of New Brighton back in 2000, a little 4 barrel system, a quaint and cozy restaurant with terrific pizza and a large inviting patio, and small 6-stool bar.  I didn't make it out there until 2004 when I heard about something called Rosie's Ale claiming to be the strongest beer on record (not exactly true, it turned out) and had to pay them a visit. Now, I don't travel to  the suburbs much and I don't drive, so I had to get a friend to take me. It's probably not unbikeable, though, but I've just never attempted it. A little farther north than I like to go, but that's no excuse.  Once the weather gets better, maybe.

So, once I discovered the place, I tried to pop by now and then, and took home growlers to take notes on. I stopped doing this, though, because of their higher than average price. I could understand why they might want to dissuade consumers from purchasing their small batch beers to take home, and encourage them to stay a while and eat and drink on site. I just didn't want to pay the extra price. No problem. I did do it a few times, though, and according to BeerAdvocate.com, I've reviewed 15 of their beers. On a few occasions, I managed to take notes based on the portions tasted at the brewpub, something I rarely do. But I'm drinking one of those same beers today from a can not brewed in that tiny space off of Old US Highway No. 8, but in New Richmond, Wisconsin.

Why is this? Moore did something unusual. In Minnesota, brewpubs are restricted in various ways that still make little sense. Progress happens, incrementally, of course, but strings are still frustratingly holding the brewers and owners back. A brewpub can sell growlers or bottles of their beer to consumers on site, but can't use any other packaging or sizes than what the law allows. 750 ml? yes. 16 ounce? No. They also cannot sell them to other retailers, can't distribute, and their kegs cannot change hands at all. Minneapolis Town Hall Brewery created a workaround by opening two new bars and restaurants in other neighborhoods, and sells those kegs to themself. What John Moore realized, while he dreamed of expanding, is that if he started a larger brewery in Minnesota, he would still be constrained by these restrictive laws, unless he closed the brewpub. So, he opened a brand new facility across the border, brewing and canning those same recipes, selling the cans and kegs to a Minnesota distributor, allowing his beers to finally find themselves on our local shelves. And yet, he still owns and operates the same, small brewpub in New Brighton. Not sure how he worked that out, but here we are.

So, at long last, here are my notes from a growler of Wild Brunette, from back in May of 2004, while I chug-a-lug a tallboy today....

A strong Belgian-style brown ale named for the brewer's wife. My first taste was a "snit" provided gratis by the waitress, who called it her favorite, and I sample now from a growler.

Appearance: dark mahagony, with reddish highlights around the edges, adorned with a lush creamy thick soft-tan head, slowly drifting down and leaving lace.

Aroma: an incredible marriage of flavors, nuts, yeast, bread, roasty-toasty, some dark fruit, perhaps, and, with time, a greater chocolatey quality comes forth, rich and perfectly melded, for no one attribute comes forward over others.

Taste: nice spritzy buzz of hops and carbonation meets the lips, and rides on into the palate, good mouthfeel, wonderful flavor, medium in body, with a solid, woody finish. Cocoa still resides in the flavor, little nuttiness, and a certain sprucey, piney feel as well, as if a particular hoppiness is joining the party. A very unique flavor, with dates and raisins also showing themselves a bit, seems like a lower ABV Kasteel, but possessing it's own individual personality.

One very fine creation, from an interesting little brewpub. This is the beer they use to re-ferment into Rosie's Ale, world's strongest beer.

From the website (of the brewpub): Our signature beer at Barley John’s. Our Brown Ale is brewed with Minnesota grown Wild Rice to provide a unique nuttiness along with vanilla overtones.

7.2% ABV | 50 IBU’s

Malts Used: 2-Row, Munich, Chocolate, Aromatic, Wild Rice | Hops Used: Warrior, Willamette | Yeast: House Strain

Available in: 8oz | 16oz | 64oz Pitcher | Growler.

And, from the can: "My signature brown ale is inspired by a special lady. It has rich toasted malt, hints of soft chocolate, and dark fruit, with subtle vanilla notes. It is complex and smooth, and just like that wild brunette, simply phenomenal. Enjoy!-Barley John. Barley John's is brewer owned and operated with roots in a Minnesota brewpub where demand outgrew capacity."

Drinking this one now, out of the can, and it tastes as great as when I wrote those notes 11 years ago. Maybe even better. I'm thrilled that this is available at last in this form. I'm goddamn excited actually. And you know what, the titular brown haired lady on the label does look like Laura. I don't know how accurate the gnome is, though.