Wednesday, June 13, 2012

A Tale of Two Dubbels, Part Two: Boom Island Hoodoo



Here's #2 in the mini-marathon of Minnesota-brewed dubbels. 2 of 2. That's all I've got. Until Harriet makes Dark Abbey again. Anyway, here's the second Minneapolis dubbel, this one from Boom Island. It's called Hoodoo. For this occasion, I'm taking Bud Powell off of the turntable, and dropping on Dr. John. I won't quote the label yet, for it'll, once again, give away, my game. But let's share this much: "Handcrafted Belgian Style Ale. Boom Island Brewing Company. Minneapolis, Minnesota. 750 ml, Alcohol 8.5% by Vol." Boom Island Brewing Company, 2207 North Second Street, Minneapolis, MN, 55411."

Let's crack 'er open already…

Whoa, Ladies and gentlemen, we have a gusher! And I don't mean in the sense I usually employ on these pages. Merely loosening the cage from the cork sent it flying off and brew spilling out. I quickly poured into my favorite glass, and mopped up the table, and now we're ready to go.

Dark brown coloration, almost black, with a gorgeous head, creamy, tannish, large and lacy. Looks beautiful. (Beats Borealis in this category.)

Aroma: sweetish, creamy, nutty…not much else, not particularly special. (Borealis beats it here.) {After reading the notes on the label, yes, roasted malt, but that other stuff? A stretch, maybe, but it's hidden, and quiet.}

Taste: rich, dark, deep, scrumptious. Full-bodied, with dark malt flavors dominating, cocoa and hints of espresso. Overall dry. Floods the mouth with this richness, tasty, lightly hoppy, good bitterness. Good grit, excellent texture, lays long in the mouth. Edges on sweetness, and hops reel it right back in.

One thing missing is that extra special Belgian yeast quality, which is here in some quantity, but not quite where I want it.
(And here's where I compare again. Two completely different interpretations, two different takes on the style, but if I want something less sweet, and more deep and rich, Boom Island wins out. Borealis wins for those who want more "Belgian-ness", and Boom Island would be hit for those who want something closer to a stout or porter.)

Let's take a moment to hear about "The Skinny on Hoodoo." Aroma: Light roasted malt aroma. Slight banana and clove flavors present. { I didn't get that at all, maybe clove, banana? A stretch. If you look really hard, yeah, okay.} Flavor: Rich and complex malt flavors. Low hop bitterness. Banana and bubble gum type esters. {Again, I guess, but "bubble gum" I feel is over-used and often mis-applied. I'm certain not picking it up in the flavor. But then, I'm prone to merely say: that Special Belgian yeast something, without plucking out words like banana and bubblegum. Sometimes words fail. I'd rather not use them, than use the wrong ones.} Overall impression: Sit back and enjoy forming yours. {This I approve of, an "overall impression" of the beer by the brewer on the beer's label doesn't sit well. Say what it is, what went into it, how you made it, then get out.}

Now the front label: "Warning: the dark malt flavors, spicy aromas, and mysterious undercurrent of bitterness in this award-winning Belgian-style dubbel are powerful moo in the ancient HOODOO tradition. Prepare to fall under it's spell. Enjoy with a black cat bone {???} OR SERVING OF JOHN DE CONEROO."

That's why the Dr. John album, to put me in a hoodoo mood, I guess. I didn't need the assist from Mac Rebbenack, as this brew does a great job of getting me reeling with the feeling right away.

So how does the battle of the Minnesota dubbels shake out? Go for the Borealis (if you can find it, in the Duluth area) when in the mood for the fruitier, spicier, sweeter stuff, but bank on Boom Island for something meatier.

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