The change of the calendar brings reflective thoughts, ruminations on the good and bad that transpired during the prior 12 -month span. I never gave it much thought, but someone asked, "what was my favorite new beer of 2010"? Well, I didn't have to give it much thought, I knew. If I were to compile a 2-10 of a Top Ten list, that would take some consideration and research. But #1? No contest. It wasn't actually new to me, since I'd had it at the brewery, and at a festival, but it was newly packaged in 2010, so there.
A little background. I've known Dave Anderson for about five years, maybe more, one of the nicer gents I'm proud to call friend. And from the start, I knew of his past as brewer at various operations, and his dreams of starting his own brewery, producing impossible to categorize, not-to-style, Belgian-influenced brews. Originally he hoped to do that in the Twin Cities, and it seemed that every time I saw him, I had to pester him about when, when, when...how's it coming along, when will it happen, what would he brew?
Well, it finally happened last year, in the form of the BrewFarm in Wilson, Wisconsin. A Euro-lager in a can, BrewFarm Select, brewed at Steven Point Brewery, came first in late 2009. I made it out to the initial open house, and have a picture to prove it.
Matacabras, A Curious Ale, came out in bottles brewed by Sand Creek Brewery in Wisconsin, arrived early last spring, and with it Dave fulfilled that promise. It is unique, it is uncategorizable, and it is delicious. Here's what I wrote last March:
"Named after Spain's famed "goat-killing" northerly wind, this tempestuous brew has a maelstrom of flavors swirling within it. robust American hops and rye make this dark ale an experience to savor."
Hazed, dark orange, creeping into brown. Slim, off-white head.
Aroma is many splendorous things, a bustle of complexity....citrus and spice starts us off, maybe the spark of lemon rind and orange peel from the American hops used, and who knows what spices. (Dave won't tell.) Enticing, and arousing.
Drinking....sweetness at first, the bread and spice of the rye, the richness of malt, we get some brown sugar, molasses, maple...a ginger cookie, with a lemon spritz. Refreshing, and undaunting, but with memorable and rewarding flavors. Long finish, medium body, ....flavor lays on the palate and sticks it out for the long haul.
Matacabras blitzes the tongue with hops and spice, then lets it fade back, as the malt takes charge and delivers the warm, and satisfying flavor. This is one that takes hold of you, doesn't let you forget it. Belgian malts and yeast make this a Belgian Strong Dark Ale, but the hopping and the rye make it a wholly American invention. A thoroughly Dave Anderson original.
This is good for food, good for drinking, and good for general happiness and well-being! I cannot wait to see this catch on, as there is no reason why it shouldn't raise a ruckus in the local beer world and become a singular sensation. At least, until the next unique BrewFarm rollout.
Here's to the Goat Killer! But, not to ...actually...goats being killed...
Nowadays, I try to always make sure I have some Matacabras on hand, for it is so satisfactory, and fulfills my desires for something dark, something funky, something hoppy, and something rich and rewarding. Like a dubbel and quad and a doppelbock, and then some. So very good.
And something interesting happened after the release of Matacabras, and to my frustration, it largely happened without me. Dave & his wife Pam hosted open house sessions like that first one I went to almost every single weekend from the springtime until the middle of December when the weather went all crazy. And every time, there was something new from his tiny LaBrewtory that could only be sampled there (unless he took it to a festival, and you were lucky enough to attend). Every week, I'd see friends post on facebook about the beers Dave had that time, and wished I could have tagged along. It was as if he was running a pub at the tasting room of this tiny experimental brewery, attached to his home. If instead of being what he is, and doing what he's doing, his operation were instead a brewpub, it would be the best brewpub on Earth. Right now, it's the best little brewing playlab for good friends, fans, and admirers to gather around. I finally made it back in late November, and my friends nearly made it into a brewpub by bringing a pizza oven, and tons of food. And every week, there's something new and different, as well as plenty of the old favorites.
If some those go into bottles, more heads will turn. Hey, I'm anxiously waiting kegs of Matacabras. It's great to have bottles, but pouring it tap, that will be incredible.
Dave is doing what I love best about American craft beer, taking inspiration from European traditions, but using American innovation to break the rules and create something new and amazing.
Hail, hail Matacabras, long may you reign!
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