Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Fuller's ESB


Yet another from the sampler pack.
English Ales get a hard knock these days from the beer geek world. Classic producers have gotten completely overshadowed by all the activity and innovation in the American craft beer world. Brands and styles that have stood the test of time seem passe' in light of the shiny new bottles of each new extreme edition and every transformation. It's a pity, but there's not much that English brewers are doing to catch the impressionable beer geek's attention, if they care to at all. Much of the best stuff from small, innovative brewers is almost prohibitively expensive, as well.

In February, 2003, I was going full steam ahead in the beer review game, chugging away, checking everything off the shelves.
Now, I cut my teeth on English and Irish beers, used to be a genuine Anglophile in the beer arena, before I found an American craft beer I liked (or knew they existed). (It was Summit EPA, by the way, and it was 1992.) Bass Ale was the first beer I ever actually liked, but I would choose it over only the very worst, these days. So, ten or 11 years after I cast off what I considered boring English ales and explored the variety and depth of more exciting and hoppy American ales, I took down bottle of Fuller's ESB, and wrote the following:
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Perfectly amber color, under a big, bubbling, bone-white head. An indistinct aroma, that cast off hints of flowers and honey, but also strains of coppery flintiness. A sly hop attack occurs on the tongue, which fades back fast. Light body, faint texture. Nice, but unmemorable finish. A very un-bitter "bitter", a textbook session ale. A good fruitiness comes out the middle, and the flavor overall is pleasant, but it's largely forgettable for my taste.
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I have to say that I agree with the me of 8 years ago, but would have to add an asterisk, that this is an excellent example of an ESB, a style that never really thrills me. Nor should it. Just a good ol' drinkin' beer. All these years later, my tongue has settled down, where I can really appreciate those subtler styles. Back then, I gave it a "B/ 3.6", where the average on BeerAdvocate is A-, making my ranking 13% below the mean. If I were to re-do it, I'd maybe bump it up. No, definitely. I certainly judged it for my taste, not for the style. For the style, it's a world class champ.

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