Friday, September 21, 2018

De Proef / Surly Zwart Black Star

De Proef / Surly Zwart Black Star. 8%ABV. Old Ale brewed with star anise, aged on wood with brettanomyces. Brewmaster's Collaboration, Brewed & bottled (or canned) by: De Proefbrouwerij, Lochristi, Belgium, product of Belgium. Ben Smith, Jerrod Johnson, Surly Brewing, Dirk Naudts, De Proef Brouwerij.

Once again, I turn to can #4 of a twenty dollar 4-pack to take notes. I like the first three a lot. And now I will finally tell you about it.

Lightly hazed, burgundy/dark amber hue, long-lasting off-whitish, creamy head. Looking great.

In the nose: rich, malty, slightly sweet, fruity and funky. This one has it all. Not so much of that promised anise here, but so much else. Wow.

In the mouth: Dark fruit, stone fruit, grapes, plums, etc. Bigness and richness, wonderful play on the palate. Deep, complex, significant. Brett gives it a funky twist. The heralded anise plays it light. So much of the fruit and malt, very little hops in comparison, and the alcohol starts to creep in. I liked this from the start, and I'm digging it more and more.

This is my kind of beer. It's definitely an old ale, with plenty of Belgian character. Flat out delicious, and ever-so satisfying. Get out there and drink some!

For this year's De Proef Brouwerij's annual Brewmaster's Collaboration series, Dirk Naudts partnered with Surly's Jerrod Johnson and Ben Smith to craft an old ale with star anise and Brettanomyces, creating a delicious beer that will continue to develop with time.

The overall effect of the anise on the flavor is subdued and brilliantly integrated. It's reminiscent of oak tannins to a certain degree, providing an edge for structural purposes, and letting the dense caramelization remaining in that old ale roll out as dried dark fruits, cotton candy and chewy taffy. The impact of the Brettanomyces makes this comparatively dry and more easily drinkable than most old ales. 

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